Hartford Business Journal

www.HartfordBusiness.com July 11, 2016 • Hartford Business Journal 5 Puka envisions W. Hftd. as 'world food capital' By John Stearns jstearns@HartfordBusiness.com W est Hartford restaurateur Dorjan Puka — the inspiration behind Treva, Avert Brasserie, and the planned opening of Zohara later this year, plus Artisanal Burger Co. in Manchester — is a testament to hard work paying off. Puka came to the United States from his native Albania in 1998 after winning the green card lottery. In Albania, he grew up under restric- tive communist rule, then discovered his passion for cooking when volunteering to help a cousin who cooked in a prestigious Italian restaurant that opened after com- munism's fall. He was accepted to law school at the same time, but after a month, followed his heart into the kitchen. He embarked on a difficult journey, learning to cook by watching and experimenting in Albania and other kitchens in Europe, sometimes for little to no compensation other than meals and experience. Eventually, he ascended to a head chef's job in Albania that paid a then- whopping $500 a month. Puka came to the U.S. speaking no English. "Because I know how to cook, I was not afraid," said Puka, 41. His wife, Mira, whom he married before immigrating to the U.S., spoke Eng- lish and helped the transition. He landed a line cook job at Vito's By the Park in Hartford then added a second job as line cook at Max Amore in Glastonbury before transferring to Max's Oyster Bar in West Hartford as sous chef, always work- ing lunch at Vito's and dinner at a Max. To expand his cooking repertoire, he took jobs in 2006 at well-known restau- rants in Las Vegas, Napa Valley, Calif., and San Francisco, followed by restaurant stints in France, Germany and Italy. With a dream to open his own place, he returned to Connecticut in 2007, com- muting to an executive chef job at Max's Tavern in Springfield. His vision materialized when he opened Treva, an Italian concept, in West Hartford Center in 2010. "I'm living the American dream," Puka said. Today, his DORO Restaurant Group, for which he is CEO and majority owner, gener- ates $9 million in annual revenue. DORO's chief operating officer, Scott Miller, has a minority stake. To help fuel his many tasks, including planning Zohara in the former Plimpton's store space near Treva, Puka sips five espressos a day. Zohara, set to open before Christmas, will feature Mediterranean fare with Israeli, Lebanese, Greek and Turkish influences. Concoctions will emerge from a central, open kitchen. "We want our guests to be interact- ing with chefs and see what we do and how we do it," he said. It will be the lat- est addition to a community he and Mira love and help. He serves as chef for a Westmoor Park fundraiser, Feast on the Farm, each year and contrib - utes to Growing Great Schools. Puka wants to help elevate the town's already lofty cuisine scene and believes West Hartford can become a world food capital. "It's a very European town and I really love West Hartford and I feel like I have to do something for this community and make it even better," he said, viewing res- taurants as a town draw. Puka, who loves projects, won't stop at Zohara, eyeing more eateries in West Hartford or nearby. He said his management style is to lead by example, citing an Albanian saying that "the fish start smelling from the head" when it rots. Puka demonstrates the top service and quality he expects and hires people for their willingness to learn, not their resumes. He said Mira doesn't get enough credit for her contribution to the business. She acts as finance director and is invaluable behind the scenes, Puka said. Their sons, Denny, 16, and Drini, 13, know their food, too, and their parents would wel- come their taking over some day. For now, the couple has plenty to keep them busy fulfilling Puka's plans. n H B J P H O T O | J O H N S T E A R N S Dorjan Puka has a full plate running three restaurants and planning a fourth, but he still loves to cook when he can, as he demonstrates at Treva in West Hartford. Dorjan Puka Owner/CEO, DORO Restaurant Group, comprising Treva and Avert Brasserie in West Hartford and Artisanal Burger Co. in Manchester, and later this year, Zohara also in West Hartford. Highest education: High school, Tirana, Albania. Executive insights: "I do believe delegation is huge. When we first started, I wanted to touch everything myself. Owning three restaurants, that is impossible. So slowly, I'm learning to step back and trust people, but you have to put a lot more effort and training the right people." 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