Mainebiz

V O L . X X V I I N O. X I V J U LY 1 2 , 2 0 2 1 12 A U G U S TA / WAT E R V I L L E / C E N T R A L M A I N E W hen Kerry Hanney started her Biddeford bakery, Night Moves Bread, five years ago she wanted to use flour ground from Maine-grown grains as much as possible. "e flavor was really wonderful, and it spoke to me of the culture and the integrity of Maine — that these grains were even possible, that someone was doing this, that someone was working hard to bring this back," she says. Maine-grown grains, long relegated to livestock feed and rotational crops, are seeing a resurgence for human consump- tion in recent years thanks to growing demand from wholesale and retail con- sumers, including food and brew sectors that, like Hanney, are eager to use grain grown by Maine farmers. Central Maine has become a cen- ter of that resurgence, thanks to the Maine Grain Alliance in Skowhegan. Established in 2007, the grassroots group of individuals in the area started a Kneading Conference and Artisan Bread Fair, an annual gathering of grain farmers, millers, bakers, research- ers and oven builders designed to inspire and spur the revitalization of local grain economies. Since then, through various fund- ing sources, the alliance has broad- ened its support of the grain economy through education, technical assis- tance and other programs. Recognized as a pioneer in local grain economies, representatives share their expertise nationwide. "ere's a lot going on behind the scenes," says Tristan Noyes, execu- tive director of the Maine Grain Alliance. "Our mission is to inspire and empower people who are building regional grain economies." At one time, he says, grain produc- tion for both food and feed purposes was robust in Maine. Much of that knowledge and infrastructure was lost as mass grain production sprouted in the Midwest. "We started to lose the local mills and move away from growing grains for human food," he says. Today, the grain economy spreads across Maine, through farms serving the seed, food, feed and malting mar- kets as well as expanding networks of processors and end users. Building relationships A pioneer in the resurgence is Matt Williams, owner of Aurora Mills & Farm in Linneus. Williams started grow- ing organic, food-grade wheat in 1998 for Jim Amaral of Wells-based Borealis Breads, which was seeking Maine grown wheat. At first, Amaral had to ship Williams' organic wheat out of state to be milled into flour. But Williams saw an opportunity and, in 2001, invested in a new milling operation at his farm. In 2013, he brought on his daughter, Sara, followed by his son-in-law, Marcus Flewelling. Specializing in "regenerative" F O C U S P H O T O / C O U R T E S Y K A R I H E R E R P H O T O / C O U R T E S Y A U RO R A M I L L S & FA R M The flavor and the aroma are huge. — Kerry Hanney Night Moves Bread Kerry Hanney uses Maine-grown grains as much as possible at her Biddeford bakery, Night Moves Bread. Matt Williams, founder of Aurora Mills & Farm in Linneus, and his daughter Sara. The operation has quadrupled production since 2013. Restoring key seeds T he Maine Grain Alliance is restoring seed for strains of Einkorn, black Emmer, flint corn, and rare and heritage ryes and wheats. The alliances hold the Western Hemisphere's largest supply of a rare Estonian wheat called Sirvinta. GOING GRAIN with the From a 'germ' of a start in central Maine, the grain economy is expanding across the state B y L a u r i e S c h r e i B e r

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